RELEASE OF NOVEL ENTITIES X FASHION INDUSTRY

Use of PFAS in clothing and its consequences for human health

By Tamar Kapanadze

What are PFAS?

Per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS) are a large group of man-made chemicals (i.e. novel entities) that have been widely used in industry and consumer products since the 1940s. They are known for their unique properties, including resistance to heat, water, and oil.

Common examples for the use of PFAS include:

  • Non-stick cookware: Non-stick pots or pans such as Teflon
  • Water-resistant clothing: Raincoats, waterproof shoes, gloves
  • Food packaging: Grease-resistant paper or fast-food wrappers
  • Firefighting foam: Used for extinguishing flammable liquid fires at airports, refineries, and military bases.
  • Cosmetics: Some foundations, mascaras, and lipsticks use PFAS toenhance smoothness, wear, and water resistance.
  • Household products: Applied to fabrics or carpets to preventstaining. Used in cleaning products and polishes.

Why are they called ‘forever chemicals’?

  • Due to their chemical structure, PFAS are highly resistant to breakdown by environmental factors such as heat, light, and biological activity. Therefore, PFAS can persist in soil, water, and air for decades or even centuries.
  • PFAS can also accumulate in the tissues of living organisms, including humans, and can bind to proteins in the blood and liver, leading to increasing concentrations in food chains.
  • Removing PFAS from the environment is extremely challenging and often requires advanced and costly technologies, as traditional water treatment methods are generally ineffective.

Are they dangerous for our health?

Many PFAS, especially perfluorooctanesulfonic acid (PFOS) and perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA), pose health concerns and are classified as carcinogenic.

Studies have linked PFAS exposure via skin contact, inhalation, or ingestion to a range of serious diseases, including:

  • Kidney, testicular and breast cancer
  • Liver damage, immune system deficiencies
  • Fertility issues and hormonal disruptions
  • Developmental delays for fetuses and infants

Due to these health risks, PFOS and PFOA have been subject to regulatory actions and restrictions and their use has been largely prohibited in the US or the EU. Currently, they are mainly produced in China.

However, other PFAS compounds are also being scrutinized for their potential carcinogenicity. While their production has been significantly reduced in the US and the EU, some are still in use. In general, the classification and regulation of PFAS is very complex and constantly evolving.

Use of PFAS in the fashion industry

While the use of PFAS in Teflon pans has been widely publicised, their role in the textile industry has gone under the radar for many years. However, due to their water-repellent, stain-resistant, and durable properties, PFAS are being used in various types of clothing:

  • Outdoor clothing: Waterproof jackets, ski pants, gloves, hats
  • Everyday apparel: Stain-resistant t-shirts/pants, school uniforms, yoga pants
  • Footwear: Waterproof shoes, easy-to-clean sneakers
  • Accessories: Handbags, backpacks, home textiles

In Nov. 2023, a study by Swedish NGO IPEN tested 56 outdoor jackets and 16 other clothing samples from 13 different countries:

  • 46 of 72 samples (63.8%) contained PFAS
  • 17 out of 56 jackets (30.4%) contained the highly toxic PFOA

Alternatives for PFAS in outdoor clothing

The fashion industry is increasingly seeking alternatives to PFAS, such as fluorine-free chemical treatments, plant-based and natural options or advanced textile technologies.

Yet, according to a 2024 study by NGO Ethical Consumer, 22 out of 27 outdoor clothing firms were still using PFAS and nearly half of them had no phase-out date.

While innovation and regulatory pressure are driving the industry to more sustainable solutions, there are still a number of challenges:

  • The alternatives not always meet the high standards set by PFAS in terms of durability and resistance to water and stains.
  • The development of new technologies is costly and may result in higher prices for consumers.
  • The alternatives might not yet be produced and applied at the scale needed for global fashion brands.

Sources:

https://ipen.org/sites/default/files/documents/clothing-chemicals-v12.pdf

https://www.ethicalconsumer.org/fashion-clothing/problem-forever-chemicals-waterproof-clothing

https://www.bloomberg.com/news/features/2023-02-02/raincoats-without-toxic-pfas-chemicals-are-coming

https://edition.cnn.com/cnn-underscored/outdoors/best-pfas-free-non-toxic-apparel-shoes

https://www.nationalgeographic.com/lifestyle/article/pfas-free-clothing

https://chemtrust.org/pfas-childrens-clothing/

https://www.cbsnews.com/news/pfas-in-clothing-household-items-consumer-products-forever-chemicals/

https://www.haleyaldrich.com/resources/articles/textile-manufacturing-and-pfas-three-phases-of-risk/

https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2023/jul/02/fashion-chemicals-pfas-bpa-toxic

https://www.tuvsud.com/en/resource-centre/stories/pfas-what-are-forever-chemicals-in-softlines