Hair Care Industry x Novel Entities

There are an estimated 350,000 different types of manufactured chemicals on the global market.  An increasing number of chemical compounds are being added to the formulation of not only hair care products but also cosmetics and skin care and others.

Owing to their widespread use, active residues of cosmetic products are continuously introduced into the environment in several ways.   And the current indiscriminate consumption of hair products may present a looming issue with significant adverse impacts on public health.

Hair Care Industry:facts and figures

The global hair care market is projected to grow from $77.15 billion in 2021 to $112.97 billion in 2028 at a CAGR of 5.6% in forecast period, 2021-2028. Hair maintenance products helps men and women uphold their hair health and cleanliness and protect them from damage. This products include Shampoo, conditioner, oil, serum and other used in the hair nourishment and are available in various forms including shampoo, conditioner, oil, serum and others used in hair nourishment are available as liquids, gels, creams and lotions. Nowadays hair products contain different formulas that are capable to meet any need such as dry scalp, dandruffs, bleaching, waving, repair, colored and curly hair and much more.

The Global Personal Care Chemicals Market size is estimated at USD 15,034.38 million in 2023, and is expected to reach USD 19,288.82 million by 2028,

Planetary Boundary The Release of Novel Entities

9 Planetary Boundaries Stockholm Resilience Center

Emissions of toxic and long-lived substances such as synthetic organic pollutants, heavy metal compounds and radioactive materials represent some of the key human-driven changes to the planetary environment. These compounds can have potentially irreversible effects on living organisms and on the physical environment (by affecting atmospheric processes and climate).

Even when the uptake and bioaccumulation of chemical pollution is at sub-lethal levels for organisms, the effects of reduced fertility and the potential of permanent genetic damage can have severe effects on ecosystems far removed from the source of the pollution.esearchers warn.

There are many examples of additive and synergic effects from these compounds, but these are still poorly understood scientifically.  At present, we are unable to quantify a single chemical pollution boundary, although the risk of crossing Earth system thresholds is considered sufficiently well-defined for it to be included in the list as a priority for precautionary action and for further research.

Some of these pollutants can be found globally, from the Arctic to Antarctica, and can be extremely persistent. We have overwhelming evidence of negative impacts on Earth systems, including biodiversity and biogeochemical cycles.

There are an estimated 350,000 different types of manufactured chemicals on the global market. These include plastics, pesticides, industrial chemicals, chemicals in consumer products, antibiotics and other pharmaceuticals. These are all wholly novel entities, created by human activities with largely unknown effects on the Earth system.

Chemicals x Hair Care Products

An increasing number of chemical compounds are being added to the formulation of not only hair care products but also cosmetics and skin care and others.  Chemicals used  for homecare and personal care products are categorized as Personal Care Chemicals. There are more than thousands of different personal care chemicals. The personal care portfolio included ingredients such as emolients, preservatieves, emulsifiers mild surfactants, actives, pearlized and are used to potentiate their quality, property and shelf life. The uses of each chemical category will be briefly mentioned as well as its know potential harm to the earth systems.

Owing to their widespread use, active residues of cosmetic products are continuously introduced into the environment in several ways. 

Many of these chemicals are bioactive and are characterized by potential bioaccumulation ability and environmental persistence, thus exerting a major risk to humans and the health of ecosystems. Hence, the indiscriminate consumption of hair products may present a looming issue with significant adverse impacts on public health. 

Specific focus is given to illustrate the environmental risks of these substances on human health and aquatic system in terms of  effects on aquatic life. ecotoxicity, bioaccumulation, water pollution and environmental persistence. 

Commonly Used Chemicals

Emolients

Emollients include aloe vera, vegetable oils, and mineral oils. Silicone has also become a popular emollient that seals the hair cuticle to improve shine. The most common silicone type in shampoos is dimethicone.

  1. Water Pollution: Some emollients, such as certain silicones and oils, are not readily biodegradable. When these substances are washed off the hair during shampooing, they can end up in wastewater and potentially contribute to water pollution. These persistent substances can accumulate in aquatic environments and may have long-term impacts on aquatic organisms.
  1. Bioaccumulation: Certain emollients have the potential to bioaccumulate in organisms. This means that they can build up in the tissues of living organisms over time. If these organisms are part of the food chain, the emollients can be passed on to higher-level consumers, potentially causing harmful effects on the wildlife population.
  2. Ecotoxicity: Emollients, especially those with high persistence or toxicity, can have adverse effects on aquatic life. They may disrupt the natural balance of ecosystems, affecting the growth, reproduction, and survival of aquatic organisms. It’s important to note that the degree of ecotoxicity can vary depending on the specific emollient and its concentration in the environment.

Sulfates

Sulfates: Sulfates, specifically sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) and sodium laureth sulfate (SLES), are surfactants commonly used in many personal care products, including shampoos, soaps, and toothpaste. While they are effective in creating lather and removing dirt and oil, sulfates can have some environmental effects:

Aquatic Toxicity: Sulfates can interfere with aquatic life by affecting respiration, growth, and reproduction, particularly in sensitive organisms such as fish and amphibians.

Environmental Persistence: Sulfates are water-soluble compounds that can persist in the environment for a certain period of time. This persistence can vary depending on factors such as temperature, pH, and microbial activity. Their persistence can lead to prolonged exposure of aquatic organisms to sulfates and potentially impact the ecosystem over time.

Eutrophication: Sulfates can contribute to eutrophication, a process where excessive nutrients enter water bodies, leading to an overgrowth of algae and aquatic plant life. When sulfates are discharged into water systems, they can act as a nutrient source, promoting the growth of algae. The subsequent decay of this excessive plant life can deplete oxygen levels in water, negatively affecting other aquatic organisms.

To minimize the environmental effects of sulfates, some manufacturers are developing sulfate-free alternatives for personal care products. These alternatives aim to provide effective cleansing while reducing the potential negative impacts on the environment. A

Sulfates commonly used in Shampoo: Sulfates Commonly Used in Shampoo:

(Avoid if Possible) Laureth Sulfate Sodium, Lauroyl Isethionate, Lauryl Sulfoacetate Sodium. Sodium Lauroyl Taurate, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, (Usually contains the word “sulfate”.)

Thickeners

Thickeners used in hair care products can have varying environmental effects depending on their specific properties and the context of their use. The most commonly used Stearic Acid, Gelatin, Xanthan Gum, Carnauba Wax, Stearyl Alcohol and Cetyl Alcohol.

  1. Persistence: Silicones, including certain types of silicones commonly used in personal care products like cyclopentasiloxane and dimethicone, can persist in the environment. They are not readily biodegradable, meaning they break down slowly, if at all. This persistence can result in long-term accumulation in ecosystems and potential impacts on wildlife.
  2. Water Pollution: Silicones can enter aquatic environments through the discharge of treated wastewater containing personal care products or through the use of products that directly come into contact with water bodies. Since silicones are hydrophobic (water-repellent), they tend to accumulate at the water surface and form a thin film. This film can impede gas exchange, disrupt light penetration, and potentially affect aquatic organisms.
  3. Ecotoxicity: Silicones are generally considered to have low acute toxicity to aquatic life. However, chronic exposure to high concentrations of certain silicones can still have adverse effects on aquatic organisms. Additionally, the long-term ecological impacts of silicones are not yet fully understood, and research is ongoing to assess their potential effects on various species and ecosystems.
  4. Environmental Transformation: In the environment, some silicones can undergo transformation processes, such as hydrolysis and oxidation, which can generate byproducts. These byproducts may have different properties and potential environmental effects compared to the original silicones. The extent and impact of such transformations depend on factors like environmental conditions, exposure, and specific silicone chemistry.

Polyquaterniums

Polyquaterniums are a group of synthetic polymers that are commonly used in personal care products, including hair care products, as conditioning agents. Biodegradability: The biodegradability of polyquaterniums can vary depending on the specific polymer and its chemical structure. Some polyquaterniums, like Polyquaternium-44 and Polyquaternium-7, are generally considered to have low to moderate biodegradability. On the other hand, Polyquaternium-10 and Polyquaternium-11 are typically designed to be more readily biodegradable.

  1. Water Pollution: When polyquaternium-containing products are washed off and enter wastewater systems, polyquaterniums can be released into aquatic environments. The persistence and potential effects of polyquaterniums in water bodies depend on various factors, including their biodegradability, concentration, and exposure time. While some polyquaterniums may degrade over time, others can persist and potentially contribute to water pollution.

2. Ecotoxicity: Polyquaterniums generally have low acute toxicity to aquatic organisms. However, their chronic effects and long-term impacts on ecosystems are still being studied. Some studies have suggested that certain polyquaterniums, especially those with high cationic charges, may have adverse effects on aquatic organisms, such as fish and algae, at elevated concentrations.

3. Wastewater Treatment: The removal of polyquaterniums during wastewater treatment processes can vary depending on the specific treatment methods employed. Advanced treatment technologies, such as activated sludge processes or biological treatment systems, can be effective in removing or degrading polyquaterniums. However, conventional wastewater treatment processes may have limited efficiency in removing these compounds.

Most Commonly Used: Polyquaternium-44 (best performer), Polyquaternium-7, Polyquaternium-11, Polyquaternium-10

Parabens

Parabens are a group of synthetic preservatives that have been widely used in various personal care products, including hair care products, to prevent microbial growth and extend product shelf life. The environmental effects of parabens are a topic of concern and ongoing research. 

  1. Wastewater Contamination: When products containing parabens are rinsed off during use or disposed of improperly, they can enter wastewater systems. Parabens are known to be water-soluble, and as a result, they can pass through wastewater treatment plants and potentially end up in natural water bodies. This can lead to the contamination of surface water and groundwater with parabens.
  2. Aquatic Toxicity: Parabens have been detected in environmental samples, including water bodies and aquatic organisms. Research suggests that certain parabens, such as butylparaben and propylparaben, can have adverse effects on aquatic organisms, including fish, algae, and invertebrates. These effects may include endocrine disruption, reproductive toxicity, and other disruptions to normal biological processes.
  3. Persistence and Bioaccumulation: Parabens are considered to have low persistence in the environment. They can undergo degradation through natural processes, such as photodegradation and microbial degradation. However, parabens can bioaccumulate in living organisms to some extent. This means that they can accumulate in the tissues of organisms over time, potentially posing a risk to higher-level consumers in the food chain.
  4. Regulatory Restrictions: Due to the potential concerns surrounding parabens, regulatory agencies in some countries have implemented restrictions or bans on the use of certain parabens in personal care products. These restrictions aim to minimize potential risks to human health and the environment.

Itchy Ms

Methylchloroisothiazolinone (MCI) and Methylisothiazolinone (MI) are synthetic preservatives that have been used in various personal care products, including hair care products, to inhibit the growth of microorganisms.

  1. Aquatic Toxicity: MCI and MI have been found to be toxic to aquatic organisms. They can have harmful effects on aquatic life, including fish, algae, and invertebrates, especially at higher concentrations. These effects may include acute toxicity, chronic toxicity, and disruptions to normal biological functions.
  2. Biodegradability and Persistence: MCI and MI are not readily biodegradable, meaning they break down slowly in the environment. As a result, they can persist in aquatic ecosystems for an extended period, potentially leading to long-term exposure and accumulation in organisms.

3. Wastewater Contamination: When products containing MCI and MI are washed off or disposed of improperly, these preservatives can enter wastewater systems and ultimately be released into natural water bodies. This can contribute to the contamination of surface water and groundwater, potentially impacting aquatic organisms and ecosystems.

4. Sensitization and Allergenic Potential: MCI and MI are known to be sensitizers and can cause allergic reactions in some individuals. While this aspect is more related to human health, it indirectly affects the environment by increasing the risk of products being washed off and released into water systems due to increased usage and rinsing frequency.

Alcohols

Thickeners used in hair care products can have varying environmental effects depending on their specific properties and the context of their use. The most commonly used Stearic Acid, Gelatin, Xanthan Gum, Carnauba Wax, Stearyl Alcohol and Cetyl Alcohol.

  1. Persistence: Silicones, including certain types of silicones commonly used in personal care products like cyclopentasiloxane and dimethicone, can persist in the environment. They are not readily biodegradable, meaning they break down slowly, if at all. This persistence can result in long-term accumulation in ecosystems and potential impacts on wildlife.
  2. Water Pollution: Silicones can enter aquatic environments through the discharge of treated wastewater containing personal care products or through the use of products that directly come into contact with water bodies. Since silicones are hydrophobic (water-repellent), they tend to accumulate at the water surface and form a thin film. This film can impede gas exchange, disrupt light penetration, and potentially affect aquatic organisms.

3. Ecotoxicity: Silicones are generally considered to have low acute toxicity to aquatic life. However, chronic exposure to high concentrations of certain silicones can still have adverse effects on aquatic organisms. Additionally, the long-term ecological impacts of silicones are not yet fully understood, and research is ongoing to assess their potential effects on various species and ecosystems.

4. Environmental Transformation: In the environment, some silicones can undergo transformation processes, such as hydrolysis and oxidation, which can generate byproducts. These byproducts may have different properties and potential environmental effects compared to the original silicones. The extent and impact of such transformations depend on factors like environmental conditions, exposure, and specific silicone chemistry.

Phtalates

Phthalates are a group of chemicals commonly used as plasticizers to enhance the flexibility and durability of plastics. They are also used in a variety of consumer products, including hair care products, as fragrance carriers, solvents, and fixatives. 

  1. Water and Soil Contamination: Phthalates can enter the environment through various pathways, such as industrial discharges, improper disposal, and leaching from plastic products. Once released, they can contaminate water bodies and soil. Phthalates are not readily biodegradable, which means they can persist in the environment for long periods.
  2. Bioaccumulation: Some phthalates have the potential to bioaccumulate in organisms. This means that they can accumulate in the tissues of living organisms over time. This bioaccumulation can occur in aquatic organisms and potentially impact the food chain.

3. Toxicity to Aquatic Life: Phthalates have been found to have toxic effects on aquatic organisms. Studies have shown that certain phthalates can disrupt the endocrine system of fish and other aquatic organisms, affecting their reproductive and developmental processes. The specific toxicity of phthalates can vary depending on the specific compound and the concentration used.

4. Potential Human Health Concerns: Phthalates have been associated with potential health risks to humans, particularly in cases of chronic exposure. Some phthalates have been classified as potential endocrine disruptors, meaning they can interfere with hormone signaling pathways in the body. This has raised concerns about their potential impact on human health, including reproductive and developmental effects.

5. Regulatory Measures: Due to the environmental and health concerns associated with certain phthalates, regulatory measures have been implemented in various countries to restrict their use. For example, the European Union has banned the use of certain phthalates in cosmetic and personal care products.

Flagged Chemicals

Propylene Glycol

Propylene glycol is a synthetic compound commonly used in hair care products for its ability to attract and retain moisture, as well as its solubility in both water and oil. 

Aquatic Toxicity: Propylene glycol is generally considered to have low toxicity to aquatic organisms. It has been found to have minimal acute toxicity to fish, invertebrates, and algae in standard laboratory tests. However, it’s important to note that prolonged exposure to high concentrations of propylene glycol or its metabolites may still have adverse effects on aquatic life. Additionally, the combination of propylene glycol with other ingredients in hair care products should also be taken into account.

Biodegradability: Propylene glycol is readily biodegradable, meaning it can be broken down by natural processes over time. Microorganisms in the environment can metabolize and degrade propylene glycol, resulting in its eventual breakdown into simpler compounds. This biodegradability helps reduce its persistence in the environment.

Potential for Bioaccumulation: Propylene glycol is not known to bioaccumulate in organisms. It does not have a tendency to accumulate in the tissues of living organisms as it is metabolized and eliminated relatively quickly.

Volatile Organic Compound (VOC) Potential: Propylene glycol is considered a volatile organic compound, which means it can contribute to the formation of ground-level ozone and smog when released into the atmosphere. However, compared to other volatile organic compounds, its contribution to air pollution is generally considered to be low.

Packaging and Disposal: The environmental impact of propylene glycol-containing products also extends to packaging waste and disposal. Proper disposal of product containers, such as recycling or appropriate waste management, can help minimize the environmental burden.

Retinol Palmitate

Retinyl palmitate is a synthetic form of vitamin A that is commonly used in various personal care products, including hair care products, for its antioxidant and skin-conditioning properties. However, the environmental effects of retinyl palmitate are primarily related to its potential impact when released into the environment. 

  1. quatic Toxicity: Retinyl palmitate has been shown to have low to moderate toxicity to aquatic organisms, including fish and aquatic invertebrates, in certain studies. The specific effects can vary depending on the concentration and duration of exposure. Higher concentrations or prolonged exposure to retinyl palmitate may have adverse effects on aquatic life.
  2. Biodegradability: Retinyl palmitate is biodegradable under certain conditions. It can be broken down by microbial activity in the environment, leading to its degradation over time. However, the rate of biodegradation can depend on factors such as environmental conditions and the availability of microbial populations capable of metabolizing retinyl palmitate.

3. Potential Bioaccumulation: Retinyl palmitate has the potential to bioaccumulate in organisms. This means that it can accumulate in the tissues of organisms over time, potentially reaching higher concentrations as it moves up the food chain. Bioaccumulation can pose risks to higher-level consumers and predators in the ecosystem.

4. Environmental Transformation: Retinyl palmitate can undergo environmental transformations, such as degradation or chemical reactions, which can generate byproducts. The extent and impact of these transformations are dependent on factors such as environmental conditions, exposure, and specific chemical reactions. The environmental fate and impacts of these byproducts may differ from retinyl palmitate itself.

Formadelhyde

Formaldehyde is a colorless gas with a strong, pungent odor that is widely used in various industries, including the production of certain hair care products and cosmetics. The environmental effects of formaldehyde can be significant. Here are some key considerations:

Air Pollution: Formaldehyde can be released into the air during manufacturing processes, use, and disposal of products containing or releasing formaldehyde. In outdoor environments, formaldehyde can contribute to air pollution, especially in areas with high industrial activity or in poorly ventilated indoor spaces. Elevated levels of formaldehyde in the air can have detrimental effects on human health and the environment.

Toxicity to Aquatic and Terrestrial Organisms: Formaldehyde is toxic to aquatic organisms, including fish and invertebrates, and can cause adverse effects such as reduced growth, impaired reproduction, and even mortality. In terrestrial environments, formaldehyde exposure can harm plants, soil organisms, and other non-aquatic organisms. The extent of the impacts depends on the concentration, duration of exposure, and sensitivity of the species.

Photochemical Smog Formation: Formaldehyde is involved in the formation of photochemical smog when it reacts with nitrogen oxides (NOx) and volatile organic compounds (VOCs) in the presence of sunlight. Photochemical smog can have harmful effects on human health, damage crops and vegetation, and contribute to overall air pollution.

Occupational Health and Safety: Formaldehyde poses risks to the health and safety of workers involved in the manufacturing or handling of formaldehyde-containing products. Occupational exposure to formaldehyde can cause respiratory issues, skin irritation, and even cancer in humans.

Pantenol

Panthenol, also known as provitamin B5, is a synthetic compound commonly used in hair care products for its moisturizing and conditioning properties.

  1. Biodegradability: Panthenol is readily biodegradable, meaning it can be broken down by natural processes in the environment. Microorganisms can metabolize panthenol, leading to its degradation into simpler compounds over time. This biodegradability helps reduce its persistence in the environment.
  2. Aquatic Toxicity: Panthenol is generally considered to have low toxicity to aquatic organisms. It has been found to have minimal acute toxicity to fish, invertebrates, and algae in standard laboratory tests. However, as with any substance, it’s important to consider the overall formulation and concentration of panthenol in hair care products, as well as the potential interactions with other ingredients.

3. Potential for Bioaccumulation: Panthenol is not known to bioaccumulate in organisms. It does not have a tendency to accumulate in the tissues of living organisms as it is metabolized and eliminated relatively quickly.

4. Wastewater Treatment: Panthenol can enter wastewater systems when products are rinsed off during use. It can be effectively removed or degraded during wastewater treatment processes, such as activated sludge treatment or biological treatment. Proper wastewater management and treatment systems can help minimize the release of panthenol into the environment.

5. Packaging and Disposal: The environmental impact of panthenol-containing products also extends to packaging waste and disposal. Proper disposal of product containers, such as recycling or appropriate waste management, can help minimize the environmental burden.

Conclusion

The researchers conclude that current increasing trends of chemical production and release put the health of the Earth system at risk. Researchers call for actions to reduce the production and release of pollutants.

It’s worth noting that environmental impacts can vary depending on the specific formulation, concentrations, and conditions of use of hair care products. Therefore, it’s important for both consumers and manufacturers to be aware of these potential effects and make informed choices to minimize their environmental footprint.

 At the same time, Proper wastewater management, adherence to local regulations, and continued research on the environmental fate and impacts of these alcohols can help minimize any potential ecological footprint associated with their use in hair care products.

For those reasons, shifting to a circular economy is important. That means changing materials and products so they can be reused not wasted, designing chemicals and products for recycling, and much better screening of chemicals for their safety and sustainability along their whole impact pathway in the Earth system”

Sources

https://www.mdpi.com/2079-9284/7/1/13

https://www.mordorintelligence.com/industry-reports/personal-care-chemicals-market

Emollients for Hair: A Comprehensive Guide

https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&url=

https%3A%2F%2Fwww.particleformen.com%2Fparticle-magazine%2Fwhat-is-sulfate-free-shampoo

https://www.particleformen.com/particle-magazine/what-is-sulfate-free-shampoo/

Natural-Based Thickeners

https://www.fortunebusinessinsights.com/hair-care-market-102555

https://www.stockholmresilience.org/research/planetary-boundaries/the-nine-planetary-boundaries.html