2025 | Sustainability in Fashion and Creative Industries
Ecosystems and Economics
By María Godoy
How the Fashion &Textile Industry Enables Planetary Boundary Transgressions Through Chemical Pollution
The Planetary Boundaries Framework functions as a response to the weakening of the planet and the persistent loss of resilience in Earth’s systems. It specifically addresses how we are rapidly approaching and crossing tipping points, putting global stability at risk. The framework defines nine critical Earth system processes that are vital for maintaining the planet’s stability and resilience, each of which has been significantly disrupted by human activity (Rockström, 2024). This has created an urgent need for transformation.
These boundaries seek to describe and quantify safe levels of anthropogenic perturbation which, if respected, would allow Earth to remain in a “Holocene-like” state, characterized by the stable environmental conditions that have accompanied humans over the past 10,000 years (Richardson et al., 2023). By identifying and adhering to the planet’s physical limits, humanity can nurture a more stable and resilient planet capable of addressing the climate crisis and adapting within these boundaries.
The Most Challenging to Quantify
One of the nine Planetary Boundaries processes is Novel Entities, which encompasses human-made substances that do not naturally occur within Earth’s systems. These technological developments have introduced synthetic chemicals, plastics and other novel materials into the environment, consequently disrupting ecological and evolutionary processes, altering functioning Earth systems. Novel Entities fall under the “unnatural” category of planetary processes and represent one of the most challenging boundaries to quantify, due to the increasing amount of chemical compounds in circulation. Importantly, this process is one of the six that have already transgressed the boundaries, highlighting that the volume and rate of synthetic substances being released into the environment, often without correct safety testing, have pushed Novel Entities into a high risk zone (Stockholm Resilience Center, n.d.)
Crossing planetary boundaries represents a significant increase in the risk of triggering large scale or irreversible environmental changes. For the environment, it points to a shift towards instability, where Earth systems may no longer function in the expected ways that have supported life for thousands of years. The consequences of transgressing these boundaries may not be immediate or drastic, crossing them marks a critical limit, indicating higher risk to both human society and the biosphere as a whole (Stockholm Resilience Center, n.d.)
What role does the fashion & textile industry play in this?
The fashion & textile industry’s supply chain is deeply intertwined with the Earth system processes and global commons (Rockström, 2022). As production and consumption continue to increase at a rapid rate, the fashion industry is crossing several Planetary Boundaries. Positioning itself at a critical juncture, with deep implications for both environmental stability and the global economy (Steffen et al., 2015).
1M
Tons of clothing consumed annually
1,000
identified chemicals
1%
of global insecticides
1%
of all pesticides
The textile industry is estimated to be responsible for 20% of global water pollution.
harmful chemicals into aquatic ecosystems
As previously mentioned, the industry’s supply chain is deeply interconnected with Earth Systems, which makes it possible to identify how its chemical pollution enables the transgression of Planetary Boundaries and the destabilization of the planet. Prominent examples are found in dyeing and finishing processes, where large amounts of water are used to bleach, dye and treat fabrics, only to be discharged into local waterways, frequently without adequate treatment.
One example of the environmental and health risks posed by these substances is the use of azo dyes, which tend to be preferred for their vibrant colors and affordability.
However, when they break down, they can release aromatic amines, which can be carcinogenic. These chemicals are frequently resistant to biodegradation and can accumulate in the environment over time (Textile Industry and Climate Change: Time for Responsibility and Sustainability, 2023a). Consequently, contaminated wastewater introduces harmful chemicals into aquatic ecosystems, leading to pollution, biodiversity loss, and ecosystem degradation.
The textile industry is estimated to be responsible for 20% of global water pollution. Moreover, synthetic textiles such as polyester release microplastic fibers during washing, it has been stated that a single load of laundry can shed up to 700,000 microplastic fibers, which can enter waterways, eventually reaching the food chain. (European Parliament, 2020).
500,000 tonnes of microplastics
Microplastics from textiles are primarily released during the first few washes of synthetic garments. When viewed through the lens of fast fashion, with its high production volumes, low prices and rapid sales volumes, the scale of this problem becomes enormous. The sheer number of first time washes significantly increases microplastic pollution.
In fact, global textile production has nearly doubled, from 58 million tonnes in 2000 to 109 million tonnes in 2020, with projections estimating it will reach 145 million tonnes by 2030 (“ETC-CE Report 2023/5,” 2023). This growth, combined with the fact that washing synthetic garments contributes over 500,000 tonnes of microplastics to the ocean floor each year, results in alarming environmental consequences. Furthermore, the pollution associated with garment manufacturing has a critical effect on the health of local communities, ecosystems, and animal populations near production sites, further showcasing the staggering consequences of the industry’s environmental footprint (European Parliament, 2020).
disproportionately high use of pesticides
Many of the harmful substances used in fibers and textiles come from pesticides, agrochemicals, and industrial treatments commonly associated with cotton production. The cotton industry, in particular, is responsible for a disproportionately high use of pesticides, which lead to a range of secondary environmental effects. These chemicals degrade soil quality and disrupt local ecosystems, producing polluting effluents and downstream harms that pose serious risks to both human and biodiversity health. This environmental pollution not only affects agricultural communities but also contributes to broader ecological instability (Cornell, Häyhä, and Palm, 2021).
Current Realities, Regulatory Responses, and Pathways to Improvement
The fashion industry faces numerous challenges, but it also holds significant opportunities. As a sector deeply intertwined with Earth systems and dependent on global commons and ecosystem capacity to provide biomass, the industry stands at the center of environmental sustainability issues. Which is why it’s crucial for the fashion industry to realign its practices within planetary boundaries to take a meaningful role in supporting a healthy and resilient planet (Rockström, 2022).
steps toward building a more resilient and stable planet by promoting education and sustainable practices
Despite the high likelihood of exceeding overall planetary boundaries by 2025, it is essential to stay committed to the pathway toward a safe landing, reinforcing the urgent need for immediate and transformative action (Rockström, 2022). Precautionary measures and reductions in the use of harmful substances must go hand in hand. Chemical pollution can no longer be viewed as a localized issue; it requires organized global responses. This includes the implementation of transparency, monitoring and reporting systems, alongside robust chemical and waste management policies that support effective life cycle management (Cornell, Häyhä, and Palm, 2021).
To align with the Planetary Boundaries framework, the fashion industry has taken steps toward building a more resilient and stable planet by promoting education and sustainable practices. One case for this is the adoption of Integrated Pest Management (IPM) programmes within the cotton industry, where producers are educated on agrochemical application and learn methods to reduce or avoid pesticide use (Cornell, Häyhä, and Palm, 2021). Additionally, certifications like the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) play a vital role in ensuring that a wide range of products, such as fibers, yarns, fabrics, garments, home textiles, personal hygiene products, and food contact textiles, are produced sustainably and ethically. While GOTS does not eliminate all chemicals from the production process, it strictly restricts and monitors the use of toxic and hazardous substances. The certification emphasizes environmental and social responsibility, and its transparency empowers consumers to choose organic products that come from environmentally conscious supply chains (The Standard – GOTS – Global Organic Textile Standard, n.d.)
early identification of hazardous chemical
Furthermore, initiatives such as REACH (Registration, Evaluation, Authorization and Restriction of Chemicals), the EU’s primary legislation for protecting human health and the environment from chemical risks, play a key role in regulating harmful substances. REACH requires brands to address the use of high-concern chemicals, such as PFAS (per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances), also known as “forever chemicals”, due to their durability in the environment. The regulation facilitates early identification of hazardous chemical properties and enables action to phase out or restrict substances that pose significant environmental or health risks (REACH Regulation, 2025).
Preventing chemical pollution at its source, through restriction and bans on harmful substances, not only significantly reduced the release of novel entities but also supported the fashion industry’s shift towards a circular and restorative production system (Cornell, Häyhä, and Palm, 2021).
It is vital that the industry embraces transformation and adopts a planet positive mindset, prioritizing the health of the Earth above all else. Becoming a planet positive fashion industry means committing to circularity throughout the value chain. This transition will enable sustainability and resilience by supporting biodiversity, strengthening global commons, and stabilizing natural assets. Consequently, reducing harm to communities and mitigating the destabilization of societes, showcasing that a healthy planet is the foundation for the future of a healthy fashion industry (Rockström, 2022).
Cornell, S., Häyhä, T., & Palm, C. (2021). A sustainable and resilient circular textiles and fashion industry: Towards a circular economy that respects and responds to planetary priorities. Stockholm Resilience Centre, Stockholm University. https://ellenmacarthurfoundation.org
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Rockström, J. (2022, April 1). Prof. Johan Rockström on Planet Positive Fashion [Video]. YouTube. H&M Foundation. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TFyy5T6BCVE
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