The impact of the fashion industry on the planetary boundary of novel entities.
Solène Margaux Schlömann
Microplastic X Fashion Industry
Planetary Boundaries
The Planetary Boundaries framework, introduced by Rockström et al. in 2009, identifies nine earth system processes that are influenced by human activities. These boundaries function as safe limits for human actions that maintain the Earth’s stability and resilience. (Rockström et al., 2009)
When these boundaries have been exceeded they enter the zone of increasing risk. Six of the nine planetary boundaries have already transgressed. (Richardson et al., 2023)
This Article focuses on the link between the Fashion Industry and Novel entities, in particular synthetic fibres and microplastic pollution. Novel entities refers to entities that are new in a geological sense and that have been introduced by humans. Newly introduced materials, chemicals and products can potentially cause effects on earth system processes. (Persson et al., 2022)
Synthetic fibres
Synthetic fibres are man made fibres manufactured through chemical processes. It can be differentiated into fibres that are made from natural raw materials, like Rayon or Lyocell, which are then considered as semi-synthetic fibres; and fibres that are made from chemical based raw materials, like petroleum based Polyester. (Jenkin, 2017) Synthetic fibres have surpassed cotton as the most produced fibre in the late 2000s and continues to grow as the market leader.
The Fashion Industry relies heavily on synthetic fibres and makes it a major contributor to microplastic pollution.
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Tonnes of synthetic fibres produced in 2023
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Synthetic fibres of the total global fibre production in 2023
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Polyester of the global fibre production in 2023
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Nylon and other synthetic fibres of the global production in 2023
Microplastics
Microplastics are pervasive and persistent pollutants that are fragments of plastics and are smaller than five millimeters (Rani et al., 2024). They are released into the environment throughout the plastic value chain: production, transportation, use and end of life. The way in which they enter the environment classifies them into either primary or secondary microplastics.
Primary microplastics are produced as such or are directly released plastic particles. Most sources of primary microplastics are unintentional and released through abrasion, like tyres, city dust and synthetic fibres. But some, like microbeads in beauty products, makeup and toothpaste, are manufactured as such. Secondary microplastics are the result of larger plastic items (macroplastics) breaking down into fragments through environmental exposure, UV radiation or mechanical effects. These include fishing gear, plastic packaging, and landfill litter. (Manshoven et al., 2022)
The exact amount of microplastic that is currently in the environment is hard to be measured. Around 35% of primary microplastics that enter the marine environment are estimated to come from synthetic fibres. This relates to around 200.000 to 500.000 tonnes of microplastic each year (Wasser 3.0, 2025).
Microplastic as a pollutant, why is it an issue?
01
Environmental Impact
All ecosystems on Earth are affected by plastic pollution, land, air, freshwater, and marine, making microplastics a persistent and pervasive pollutant. Microplastics have been detected in mountain soils, deep-seas, and the air. Their small size allows them to travel long distances and enter environments, where they disrupt natural processes such as soil fertility, water filtration, and nutrient cycling.
02
Human Health Impact
Microplastics have entered global food chains, leading to human exposure through seafood, drinking water, and other food and beverage sources such as salt, honey and beer. Microplastics have been detected in human blood, organs, lungs, and even the human brain. While the full health implications are still being researched, there is growing concern that microplastics and toxic chemicals may cause inflammation, disrupt hormones, and contribute to metabolic and immune disorders.
03
Biodiversity Impact
Microplastics threaten biodiversity at multiple levels. They are consumed by many organisms, from plankton to fish, birds, and different mammals. This ingestion can cause physical harm, block the digestive system, and reduce feeding and reproductiveness. At the ecosystem level, microplastics can change structures, disrupt food webs, and lead to reduced ecosystem resilience. But also the earth’s soil is inhabited by microscopic life which are the base of the terrestrial food chain and hold an impact on biodiversity. They play a crucial role in the nutrient cycle of the soils.
04
Climate Impact
Microplastics can affect climate-regulating processes. Phytoplankton, which are key organisms for carbon cycling, are affected by microplastics on their photosynthesis and growth. It reduces the oceans capacity to convert oxygen and store carbon dioxide. Phytoplanktons are estimated to produce 50-70% of the oxygen in the atmosphere (WWF, 2024). Additionally, the production of petroleum based plastics release greenhouse gases, further contributing to global warming.
The Fashion industry’s impact
The practices of the Fashion Industry influence the release of microplastics into ecosystems heavily through several interconnected ways.
Material Choices
The high use of synthetic fibres in the fashion industry with a focus on Polyester, Nylon and Acrylics drives microplastic pollution. These fibres are produced from petrochemicals and release microplastic throughout their entire lifecycle. Their low production cost compared to natural fibres has led to the dominance of synthetic fibres in the global textile market. The reliance of the industry on synthetic fibres and textiles increases the amount of microplastic that is being released into the environment. The fast fashion business model encourages frequent buying behavior and fast disposal of low-cost and -quality garments and by that the endangerment of the environment. The fashion Industry’s material choices are therefore closely linked to the amount of microplastic pollution.
Manufacturing & Processing
Microfibre release begins during textile production processes such as spinning, weaving, dyeing, and finishing. All production processes contribute to the shedding of synthetic microfibers. Insufficient wastewater treatment plants in production countries result in microplastic being released at manufacturing stage. Pre-washing and other finishing steps generate large amounts of microplastic waste, which then enters local rivers and oceans. The lack of standardized filtration and wastewater treatment plants regulations enhances this problem. With the growing textile production, the impact of microfibres becomes a growing issue for local ecosystems and the marine environment.
Wearing & Washing
The release of microplastics through domestic laundering in the first washes of a garment is one of the major sources of microplastic pollution. One garment can release between 700 and 200.000 particles during one washing cycle (Water 3.0, 2025). Washing clothes exposes textiles to mechanical and chemical processes. Temperature, rotation, friction, detergent, fabric softener, … are needed in order to clean clothes. However this contributes to the release of microplastic into wastewater. High temperatures and faster rotational speed are believed to increase microplastic release of textiles. Since they are not retained by washing machines they are later discharged through the sewage. Wastewater can therefore be considered the primary way of releasing microplastic into the environment. But also simply wearing synthetic garments releases microplastic, through movement and friction.
End of Life & Waste Management
Increased Fast Fashion demand, short product lifespan and lack of extended producers responsibility results in garments ending up on textile landfills. Unlike natural fibres, synthetic textiles do not biodegrade easily but break down into smaller fragments (secondary microplastic) through sunlight, wind, moisture and microbial activity. These microplastics can be taken up by soil organisms and impact the soil health. Exposure through wind can result in the microplastics ending up in marine ecosystems as well.
CONCLUSION
The Fashion Industry relies heavily on synthetic fibres with one third of globally produced textiles being synthetic. Primary and secondary microplastics are being released throughout the entire value chain and end up in rivers, seas and soils. The impacts are far reaching. Microfibres and -plastics harm marine life, disrupt ecosystems and carry toxic chemicals that enter food chains and possibly affect human health.
In order to minimize microplastic pollution and the increasing risks novel entities have on the earth systems, collective action and systemic change needs to happen. Brands need to take responsibility at design and manufacturing stages by choosing fabrics and processes that minimize microfibre shedding. Ensuring Product durability, offering repair and recycling programmes and extending their responsibility as producers can have a meaningful impact. Policy regulations and interventions are crucial in order to drive industry wide change. At the consumer end, most primary microplastic is being released through washing and wearing. Adopting better buying decisions, laundry habits and demanding more accountability from brands and policymakers will meaningfully contribute to a more sustainable fashion industry.
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