Claudia Andrea Marcano Marin
Ecosystems & Economics
Master in Sustainability in Fashion and Creative Industries
July 2025
Jewelry is a symbol of beauty and luxury but often comes with a hidden environmental cost. Chemical processes play a central role in every stage of jewelry production, from the extraction of precious metals and gemstones to refining, crafting, and finishing, many of which release hazardous substances into the environment. This widespread chemical use directly contributes to the transgression of a critical planetary boundary: chemical pollution and the release of novel entities.
There are nine planetary boundaries in total, this website focuses on the connection between The Jewerly Making Processes and Industry and Novel entities.
PLANETARY BOUNDARIES
“Planetary boundaries define the safe operating space for humanity with respect to the Earth system and are associated with the planet’s biophysical subsystems or processes. If these thresholds are crossed, then important subsystems, such as a monsoon system, could shift into a new state, often with deleterious or potentially even disastrous consequences for humans”
– (Rockström, J., Steffen, W., Noone, 2009).
When these boundaries have been exceeded they enter the zone of increasing risk. Six of the nine planetary boundaries have already transgressed. –(Richardson et al., 2023)
NOVEL ENTITIES
Novel entities are human-made substances, modified life forms, or naturally occurring materials released into the environment through human activity, which can cause harmful effects on Earth’s systems. They pose global risks when they are persistent, highly mobile, and capable of disrupting vital ecological or geophysical processes.
For example: synthetic chemicals like CFCs (Chlorofluorocarbons) , which caused unexpected damage to the ozone layer.
Despite past lessons, humanity continues to introduce such substances without fully understanding their long-term impacts.
PROCESSES OF JEWERLY MAKING GENERATING CHEMICAL POLLUTION
MATERIAL EXTRACTION
The environmental footprint of jewerly begins with the extraction of raw materials like gold, silver, and gemstones. Mining operations (Fig 2), especially those that are unregulated, can cause serious environmental harm, including water pollution from toxic chemicals such as cyanide and mercury. These chemicals are used to leach desired metals from ore, but they frequently contaminate local water sources, soil, and ecosystems, impacting biodiversity and human health.
Some mining practices can contribute to deforestation, habitat destruction, and water pollution from chemical runoff as well. On top of this, mining and the transportation of excavated materials can leave a big carbon footprint.
FINISHING PROCESSES
PLATTING
Plating is a common technique in jewelry production, used to coat rings with metals like gold, rhodium, or silver to enhance appearance and durability. However, the process relies on hazardous chemicals such as cyanide-based solutions, nickel salts, and strong acids. These substances pose serious environmental and health risks if not properly managed, often resulting in toxic waste that can contaminate water and soil. Many of these chemicals qualify as novel entities, the overuse and poor disposal of these materials contribute to chemical pollution, pushing Earth systems beyond their safe operating limits.
POLISHING AND CLEANING
Polishing, cleaning, and other finishing stages also involve corrosive degreasers, flammable solvents, and toxic tarnish removers.
Improper disposal of these chemical wastes, which often contain heavy metals and other harmful substances, can lead to widespread soil and water contamination, contributing significantly to the planetary boundary transgression.
THE IMPORTANCE OF ETHICAL SOURCING IN JEWERLY PRODUCTION
“Ethical sourcing ensures that every step in this chain operates in a way that is environmentally and socially responsible. This involves practices like supporting local communities, offering fair wages, and creating safe working environments free from dangerous working conditions.” -SBToolkit. (2024, October 18). Sustainability In Jewelry Industry: Embracing Ethical Sourcing and Eco-Friendly Practices.
Using sustainable materials is key to minimizing the environmental impact of jewelry production. A major innovation in this area is the rise of lab-grown diamonds, which are identical to natural diamonds but created in controlled settings. This process avoids the harmful environmental effects of traditional mining, offering a more eco-friendly alternative.
CIRCULARITY IN JEWERLY
Circularity in jewelry means designing with longevity, reuse, and environmental responsibility in mind. By prioritizing recycled materials, like reclaimed gold and diamonds, jewelers reduce waste and minimize the need for harmful mining practices. Remodelling old pieces also adds emotional value, extending their life and meaning.
At the same time, supporting ethical artisanal mining ensures that sustainability includes not just the planet, but the people who depend on this industry for their livelihoods. True circularity balances environmental impact with social responsibility.
HOW CAN YOU OR YOUR BRAND HELP?
As a brand or consumer, there are ways to commit to sustainable practices that help reduce the introduction of novel entities into the environment:
– Ethical sourcing, such as mining that follows standards and certifications like Fairtrade Gold and the Kimberley Process for diamonds.
– Recycling metals and gemstones to reduce the need for new mining.
– Upcycling old jewelry into new designs as an innovative and creative approach.
– Proper disposal of chemicals used in the processes, treating them as hazardous waste.
SOURCES
Sermez.com. (n.d.). Jewelry Manufacturing CO2 Emissions: Impact & Solutions. Retrieved from https://sermez.com/blogs/ethical-luxury-by-nora-sermez/jewelry-manufacturing-co2-emissions-impact-solutions
4Ocean. (n.d.). Environmental Impact of Jewelry: What You Need to Know. Retrieved from https://www.4ocean.com/blogs/sustainable-bracelets/how-does-jewelry-impact-the-environment
Young in the Mountains. (n.d.). A Complete Guide to Ethically Sourced Fine Jewelry. Retrieved from https://younginthemountains.com/blogs/articles/ethical-jewelry-a-complete-guide-to-ethically-sourced-fine-jewelry
Rockström, J., Steffen, W., Noone, K. et al. A safe operating space for humanity. Nature 461, 472–475 (2009). https://doi.org/10.1038/461472a
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Safety–4400, E.-E.-E. H. and. (n.d.). Jewelry and Metalsmithing | Washington State Department of Health. Retrieved June 16, 2025, from https://doh.wa.gov/community-and-environment/contaminants/art-hazards/jewelry-and-metalsmithing
LanaBetty. (2024, October 21). How Does Plated Jewelry Affect the Environment? LanaBetty. https://www.lanabetty.com/blogs/lanabetty/how-does-plated-jewelry-affect-the-environment-lanabetty